Descripción
Alot goes through my mind leading up to arriving at these extremely dangerous locations, most of it is fear. This particular wave is furious, a beast of the ocean that often closes out into the channel forcing swift evacuations from the small area one can sit to shoot successfully. Out here one mistake can be life threatening immediately, it is not a place where you want to be in the water.
Working through fear in retrospect is something i've always had to do, its always present but so is a willingness to face it and in this case put myself in positions like watching this ridiculous piece of ocean charge straight at me...all to follow a dream of documenting the craziest waves on the planet, and calling them all Huzzas.